After quite a lot of research my suggestion as best for the money is the TomTom XXL 540TM. It includes lifetime map updates (the M) and an included FM traffic receiver (the T).
Don't get the 550 instead, the 540 is much better.
If it's too large for you, the XL 340TM is identical in everything except screen size.
The other models have lots of other features (voice input, bluetooth, mp3 player), but they didn't seem worth the money to me.
The only drawback I've had with it is that it takes longer than I would like to recalculate a route if you miss a turn - especially if the destination is distant.
Thanks for looking that up. So I'm reading about the route IQ thing; it doesn't sound like it uses current traffic data to change the routes? Only historical?
Also does the FM receiver work in most places? I'm pretty far away from any cities.
Yes, historical average for that road and for that 15 minute time slice. If you want more current data you might consider the live models that use cellular data connections to download more accurate data. (But you have to pay yearly subscriptions - there may be a lifetime model, I'm not sure.)
The traffic receiver will get you current conditions for the larger roads. It's pretty much only the roads that you'll hear mentioned during traffic segments on news radio. So if you have traffic on your local radio you'll probably have traffic from the receiver as well (you must also have a large FM station in your area since it piggybacks on that). It also includes all construction issues and lane restrictions/closures, even those not mentioned on the radio (I assume they get it from the municipality).
If you are far from cities I can't image you have much traffic - where it really shines is when you travel to a city. It will tell you "In 5 miles on the road you are on there is a slowdown to 20 mph lasting for 2 miles."
Due to bandwidth restrictions it's not super accurate on exactly where on the road the slowdown starts/ends but it's pretty good. The GPS unit will automatically recalculate your route to avoid the traffic if it can find a better way. Or you can have it avoid the traffic no matter if it thinks the alternate route is slower.